Marrakech - The Medina and Souks

The taxi ride from the airport was surreal. After bargaining the price of our ride from 150 dirhams to 70, we headed for the main square of Marrakech. We wove through women in traditional djellabas (long robes with a pointy hood) on mopeds, donkeys pulling carts, and pairs of teenagers sharing bicycles. We passed through the Ville Nouvelle (the modern, French neighborhood outside of the old city walls), and arrived at bustling Place Jemaa el Fna.

We were immediately struck by the number of tourists, mainly dressed in shorts and tank tops (while the locals dress very modestly, in long-sleeves and pants), and the chaos and absence of traffic laws on the square. It was boiling hot, and we cooled down with a glass of fresh-squeezed orange juice at one of the carts on the square.

Place Jemaa el Fna, where orange juice, dried fruit, and food vendors set up their carts, and snake charmers and monkey tamers try to attract the attention of tourists.


Men haul a cart-load of carpets to market.

From the rooftop terrace of our riad we could see the Koutoubia minaret, the largest in the city, and all the rooftops of houses and shops in the old-town. We often came up to the roof to escape the stagnant air on the ground and to listen to the sunset call to prayer, which is broadcast by loud-speakers from each of the dozens of minarets in the city.


Brendan relaxes in the open courtyard of our riad. The riad is the traditional Moroccan home - a square building with a central court that opens to the sky.


The street leading to our riad was narrow and winding.

A street acrobat performs in front of our favorite restaurant, Snack Toubkal, where a delicious tagine cost 35 dirhams, and kittens played under the tables.

The souks are a maze-like commercial district north of the main plaza. You can buy anything from vegetables, to ceramics, to silver jewelry, clothing, shoes, animal hides, spices, knock-off designer goods, fresh-squeezed orange juice, and live turtles, snails, and chameleons. As you walk by, you are shouted at from all sides by vendors who want you to take a look in their stalls.

Babouches, traditional point-toed leather slippers on display in the souks.

Wool hangs out to dry in Souk Sebbaghine, where wool for carpets, scarves, and hats is dyed.

Wood and metal crafts outside a shop in the souks.




We had an interesting meal at one of the food stalls in Place Jemaa el Fna - stewed sheep meat with bread. You could choose between "head," "brain," "mixed," or "meat." We chose meat. The prices were between 15 and 20 dirham. The men at the stall prepare and serve the stew while you watch. You add your own salt and cumin from a bowl on the counter, and must eat with your right hand, although we were offered silverware after one of the men noticed us struggling.