Friday, January 9, 2009

Chateau d'Amboise






The castle's chapel, where Leonardo da Vinci is buried.



The chateau of Amboise is one of the most famous in the region. It is perched on a hill and offers spectacular views of the town below and of the Loire. The castle seems huge until you learn that it is only the remains of a massive fortress. Leonardo da Vinci spent his final years in Amboise, and you can visit his house and workshop.

New Year's in Paris

A few days after Christmas we left for Paris to spend New Year's eve and a few days in Paris with Meg, my mom, and my aunt Julie. We had a lovely apartment in the St. Germain neighborhood right near the Seine and Notre Dame. We spent our time walking in the Marais, a trendy neighborhood with lots of boutiques and cafes, visiting museums (the Pompidou museum of modern art, and the Cluny museum of Medieval history), eating well, and seeing the sights. The city was packed, and lines to get into the Louvre and the cathedral were prohibitively long. But we had very nice weather for the first few days, and at the end of our trip we had snow. For me it was nice being back in Paris, recognizing all of the places I'd been when I was studying there for a semester, and spending some quality time with my family.



New Year's Eve at the apartment.







Blois Blois Blois

Blois is a small city of 50,000 about forty minutes away from Tours. It has a real medieval feel, as if very little has changed since about 1400. The city is built on a large hill, with many winding alleyways that snake through the center. It has a nice castle in the downtown area, and several large churches. We visited on a Sunday, and even by French Sunday-morning standards, it was very quiet.

The castle in Blois.

The front of the castle in Blois.



A look down one of Blois' many winding streets.


The porcupine is the regal symbol of Louis XII, who was born in Blois.




We were surprised to find this brasserie on the banks of the Loire.


Monday, December 15, 2008

Vouvray and Rochecorbon

Last weekend we took a stroll in Rochecorbon with Elodie. Although only 5 km from Tours, you get the feeling of really being out in the country. Rochecorbon is notable for its magnificent troglodytic homes (houses built partially into the limestone cliffs), many of which belong to the proprietors of the Vouvray wineries. Vouvray is a regionally-produced sparkling wine, and Tourangeaux proudly point out that it can be superior to Champagne.


Courtyard of a home near the Vouvray wineries.


Rochecorbon is also home to a former monastery from the Middle Ages, which is now a large private school called Marmoutier. The grounds contain ruins of one of France's largest cathedrals, which is the site of an ongoing archaeological excavation.



Former wine caves in Rochecorbon.








Agrandir le plan

Sunday, December 7, 2008

Noël à Tours



All the Christmas decorations went up last weekend around the city; trees in front of the Hôtel de Ville, lights strung across the streets, and loud-speakers blaring a constant stream of Christmas muzak.

We put our decorations up, too.

Sanksgeeving à la Français


We had a nice Thanksgiving in France with our friends Damien and Elodie, and two other teachers from Lycee Bayet, where I work. This was the first time that either of us had ever cooked any traditional Thanksgiving foods.

We found the only whole turkey available in November in Tours - when we bought it, the woman at the butcher looked at us like we were crazy! Here, when you buy a whole turkey, it still has the head and feet attached. It took the butcher about 10 minutes to pull the feet off while we watched in horror. Roasting a whole turkey in a French oven was also difficult, as it just barely fit inside.

After a lot of searching, we also found cranberry sauce, sweet potatoes, and something that resembled a pumpkin for our pie. Overall, we were able to cook a convincing American meal for our friends, who enjoyed this meal a lot more than when we made meatloaf.


Elodie, the librarian at Lycée Bayet organized the Soirée Thanksgiving for us.

Brendan carves the turkey in style.

Damien serves the cranberry bread.


Friday, December 5, 2008

Books I've read since coming to France

The Sound and the Fury - William Faulkner
Hard to describe or do justice to - but I will definitely be reading it again.  I didn't know anything about Faulkner when I picked this up - I guess I thought he would be a more tasteful, less sappy Tennessee Williams (lumping all Southern writers together unfairly) - instead, it was truly mind-bending, weird, and great.

Continuing my tour of Southern writers - incredibly readable and very sad.  The New York Times called it "The definitive novel on American politics" - I'm not so sure today - the kind of populist demagogue figure represented by Governor Stark (actually Huey Long, then-governor of Louisiana) isn't nearly as typical in American politics today as they were in the 1940s and before.  Reading All the King's Men, the contemporary figure I was reminded of the most was Hugo Chavez.

First thing I've read by Murakami, author of The Wind-Up Bird Chronicle, Norwegian Wood, and lots of other stuff - and I wasn't disappointed.  Until the last 50 pages, when I was disappointed by a kind of sappy, unsatisfying ending that killed all the suspense and intrigue that had been building until then.  Still quite masterful, though.

Pretty good investigative journalism about one of the last undiscovered (and uncivilized) tribes of the Amazon, and their attempts to preserve their culture in the face of oil companies, the government, and globalization.

Hobsbawm takes an interesting and much-needed look at pre-political political movements (not a contradiction in terms, as you will learn if you read this book) - that is, social movements among the poor and illiterate of Europe before socialism and Communism were known of.  By looking at banditry, mobs, the Sicilian Mafia, and millenarian movements such as Andalusian anarchism as social things (across the political spectrum - apolitical, radical, and reactionary) - we see (or at least I did) peasant self-organization as an alternative to state power.  I thought his analysis of rural anarchism in Spain from the 1800s to 1936 was excellent, and functioned as an interesting parallel historical current to the much better-known urban anarcho-syndicalism during the Spanish Civil War.

I bought this to read on the plane, and I finished it before the plane ride was over.  My book/dollars ratio was kind of skewed - if I had bought a Harper's, as I often do in the airport, I could have read it for about $9 less than this book.  A few of the essays were worthwhile - Klosterman's insomnia driven, 24-hour VH1 Classic music video saga made me laugh out loud - but it felt like I had bought a book that was really an overpriced, heavier magazine - which it was, since he wrote all of the essays for magazines.